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More Aloe Vera Painting on glass

The photo above shows my artwork on the right that I drew on the iPad and printed out. I placed it under a clear piece of glass 5x6 and began to paint with white glass line paint and filled in with aloe Vera gel paint I made using aloe Vera gel as a medium for the glass powder.

The photo above shows the finished piece before fusing.

The photo above shows after firing. The white glassliner paint worked out well. The yellow powder paint could have been slightly brighter but this nice watercolor effect is subtle and acceptable over the black. The red powder paint got lost so use brighter and lighter colors over black. Also I figured out the red disappeared because I forgot it was a transparent red. Only use opaque glass over black. Dah! I did do some shading with black and white powders over the yellow but a lot of the black was just show through from the base glass. Also don't use the glassliner paint over the powder paint even if you let it dry thoroughly. It will fire rough and pitted and will not be as shiny or smooth as the powder paints. I think I will try the powder paint with the metal tips I use for the glassliner paint and see if that works better for drawing and outlining. Overall I think this experiment was successful and I will keep trying to perfect my technique.

 

 

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More Glass Powder Painting

I have been experimenting with powdered glass. The piece above was done by placing real leaves on a piece of white Opal glass and then sifting over them using them as a stencil. I then lifted the leaves away carefully and then decided to use copper glass line paints to outline and add details to the leaves. I also used a sharp object to draw into the powder to make lines and squiggles.

The above photo shows the piece after a full fuse. I really like the powders because they fuse completely into the base glass and are glossy and do not feel like they have been added on to the top. Sometimes the glass liner paints feel raised and not quite as shiny, especially if they get a little thicker.

The piece above is also powders. I put a thin coat of aloe Vera over the white piece of glass and sifted on the yellow powder. On top of that I squeezed on premixed aloe Vera with powder from a squeeze bottle creating a design with the black and the red. I scrapped through the design with a palette knife to remove everything to form the thick white lines of just the white glass. I full fused the piece and then slumped into a candy dish mold. The glass was smaller and a different shape then the mold so I got a completely different bowl shape then the original candy dish shape. I was happy with the shape though.

The piece below was done with the homemade aloe vera powder paints. I cut a white opal circle of glass to paint on. I squeezed various colors of paint to make an abstract design. Then I scrapped through the black with a palette knife to create a texture. I also pushed the paint around with a brush and pulled some paint out with a toothpick to create the flaring lines. I added some clear frit to the red areas. Then I full fused the piece and slumped it into a shallow bowl.

The photo above is the gel paint before firing. I put it on kind of thick so I let it dry overnight before fusing.

The design was totally spontaneous because I'm still experimenting with the paints to see how they preform. The next one I do will be a more planned design. We'll see how that works out.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Drawing With Frit Powder

I used a 6x6 square of white Opal glass for this experiment. I sifted black powder evenly over the sheet of glass. I used different tools like a toothpick, a small brush, and tweezers to make the sketch. Using my smaller sifter I added some areas with a rusty red powder and added some yellow with tweezers. Cleaned up area with the toothpick and removed some background powders with a brush.

Appearance after full fusing.

The piece below was done by sifting powdered glass over plastic mesh and plastic cut from a strawberry basket. I used black and yellow Opal powder on white Opal glass. Yellow stringer was used in the corners.

Appearance after full fusing.

I will probably slump this into a sushi plate or small bowl.

 

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Powdered Frit Paint

I ordered 4 jars of frit powder to experiment creating art on glass. I found the recipe for using alovera gel with the powder and some water to make paint. I kind of like this paint better then Glassline paint but I need to do a little more experimenting before I can say for sure. Below are some test pieces I made by just squeezing the paint out of a squeeze bottle with a tip. This piece I pulled thru the wet paint with a tooth pick to achieve the pattern. All the pieces below were full fused to 1500f. The paint became part of the glass and produced a very shiny surface. The paint becomes one with the glass. All the alovera burns off nicely.

The piece on the left was done differently. I sprayed the clear glass with hairspray and sifted on a heavy layer of black glass powder then I drew through the powder with a tooth pick to make the design. I then sprayed it with hair spray from a distance so as not to blow away the powder. I placed that layer of glass on top of an orange piece of glass. It was also full fired at 1500f. The next two pieces were done with alovera powder paint.

This piece was done with bubble Glassline paint In between two pieces of clear glass. The bubbles were very small after firing. Not what I expected. I wonder if thicker paint would make bigger bubbles. I drew on the top layer with Glassline paint in black and copper.

 

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Candy Bowl With Frit

This bowl was done with 2 layers of clear glass with multi colored course frit I made. I like the colors but as you can see the outer edges got hazy which I believe is devitrification. I think it was caused because I left the used thin fire in the kiln and placed the mold on stands in there with out cleaning out the old kiln paper. I did not know that the atmosphere in the kiln can cause devitrification. I have slumped at the same schedule several times and have not had this problem. So I am pretty sure that was the cause. It is still a useful bowl. It just looks frosted. Next time I will know better.

The piece above is a streaked Amber glass and French vanilla glass. The center has Opal cloud frit and Amber frit. As you can see in the photo below after full fusing the Opal cloud frit almost disappeared. There is some slight variation though.

The piece is ready to slump tonight.

 

 

Final slumped dish.

 

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Reactive Glass Project

I forgot to post this last piece of reactive glass. I used the teal glass and French vanilla. I prefired the center piece of frit lace out of large opal cloud. Then placed it in the center of the piece and full fused it before slumping into my candy dish mold. The initial full fuse was done at the Bonnie Glo Kiln Fast rate which worked out nicely.

 

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Iridecent fused glass project

Working with Iridecent glass is quite different then normal glass. The irid coating does not stretch or melt the same as the glass. When other glass is placed on top of the irid glass it puts pressure on the irid coating creating a wrinkled texture. The irid is the medium Amber base on top of a clear circle. I used the same amber irid on top of the orange petals and it combined and created a darker irid rust color which I was happy with. This project slumped into a shallow bowl. I left the design in a soft contour.

 

The painted test strip above was done with Glassline paint. I accidentally put this piece in with the sunflower piece above at a fusing schedule less than 1500f so the paint did not fire correctly. It came out dull and cracked and I think the pink color was supposed to fire much darker in hue. I'm going to try and refuse it at 1500f and see if it will smooth back out. If not it was a test strip that failed. At least I didn't try it on a big project first.

 

 

 

 

 

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