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Drawing With Frit Powder

I used a 6x6 square of white Opal glass for this experiment. I sifted black powder evenly over the sheet of glass. I used different tools like a toothpick, a small brush, and tweezers to make the sketch. Using my smaller sifter I added some areas with a rusty red powder and added some yellow with tweezers. Cleaned up area with the toothpick and removed some background powders with a brush.

Appearance after full fusing.

The piece below was done by sifting powdered glass over plastic mesh and plastic cut from a strawberry basket. I used black and yellow Opal powder on white Opal glass. Yellow stringer was used in the corners.

Appearance after full fusing.

I will probably slump this into a sushi plate or small bowl.

 

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Powdered Frit Paint

I ordered 4 jars of frit powder to experiment creating art on glass. I found the recipe for using alovera gel with the powder and some water to make paint. I kind of like this paint better then Glassline paint but I need to do a little more experimenting before I can say for sure. Below are some test pieces I made by just squeezing the paint out of a squeeze bottle with a tip. This piece I pulled thru the wet paint with a tooth pick to achieve the pattern. All the pieces below were full fused to 1500f. The paint became part of the glass and produced a very shiny surface. The paint becomes one with the glass. All the alovera burns off nicely.

The piece on the left was done differently. I sprayed the clear glass with hairspray and sifted on a heavy layer of black glass powder then I drew through the powder with a tooth pick to make the design. I then sprayed it with hair spray from a distance so as not to blow away the powder. I placed that layer of glass on top of an orange piece of glass. It was also full fired at 1500f. The next two pieces were done with alovera powder paint.

This piece was done with bubble Glassline paint In between two pieces of clear glass. The bubbles were very small after firing. Not what I expected. I wonder if thicker paint would make bigger bubbles. I drew on the top layer with Glassline paint in black and copper.

 

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Candy Bowl With Frit

This bowl was done with 2 layers of clear glass with multi colored course frit I made. I like the colors but as you can see the outer edges got hazy which I believe is devitrification. I think it was caused because I left the used thin fire in the kiln and placed the mold on stands in there with out cleaning out the old kiln paper. I did not know that the atmosphere in the kiln can cause devitrification. I have slumped at the same schedule several times and have not had this problem. So I am pretty sure that was the cause. It is still a useful bowl. It just looks frosted. Next time I will know better.

The piece above is a streaked Amber glass and French vanilla glass. The center has Opal cloud frit and Amber frit. As you can see in the photo below after full fusing the Opal cloud frit almost disappeared. There is some slight variation though.

The piece is ready to slump tonight.

 

 

Final slumped dish.

 

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Reactive Glass Project

I forgot to post this last piece of reactive glass. I used the teal glass and French vanilla. I prefired the center piece of frit lace out of large opal cloud. Then placed it in the center of the piece and full fused it before slumping into my candy dish mold. The initial full fuse was done at the Bonnie Glo Kiln Fast rate which worked out nicely.

 

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Iridecent fused glass project

Working with Iridecent glass is quite different then normal glass. The irid coating does not stretch or melt the same as the glass. When other glass is placed on top of the irid glass it puts pressure on the irid coating creating a wrinkled texture. The irid is the medium Amber base on top of a clear circle. I used the same amber irid on top of the orange petals and it combined and created a darker irid rust color which I was happy with. This project slumped into a shallow bowl. I left the design in a soft contour.

 

The painted test strip above was done with Glassline paint. I accidentally put this piece in with the sunflower piece above at a fusing schedule less than 1500f so the paint did not fire correctly. It came out dull and cracked and I think the pink color was supposed to fire much darker in hue. I'm going to try and refuse it at 1500f and see if it will smooth back out. If not it was a test strip that failed. At least I didn't try it on a big project first.

 

 

 

 

 

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Reactive Fused Glass

 

This is my first experience using reactive glass. The teal green glass has copper in its makeup and the opal cloud frit I used in the design reacts to the copper and forms a brownish outline where the two glasses meet. I like the detail it adds to the piece.

The piece below has French vanilla glass which also reacts to the teal in the same way.

The piece above has both French vanilla and opal cloud Bullseye glass. The left and right sides of this piece only have a clear glass cap. Especially on the right side you can see the difference of the clear capped area and the teal green with no clear cap. There is a distinct line between the two and the clear capped area has more depth and shine to it. The 3 pieces above may be slumped into small sushi plates.

 

In the cabochons you can see the difference between the French Vanilla and the Opal Cloud which is a bit bluish.

Tonight I am slumping a round dish I fused previously. I just received 4 new fusing molds in the mail this a.m. I am anxious to see the results. The mold is 10" but I am slumping a 9" circle in it. I think I'll be able to peek at it before I go to bed I hope.

 

This is the slumped plate I got out of the kiln this a.m. Nice slightly curved up edges.

 

I slumped the round plate above into the mold in the lower right hand corner.

 

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Cabochons

These are some fun Pendents I created from my scrap glass. I decided to do a contour fuse on these pieces in the Bonnie Glo Kiln. I did my own schedule of 500 to 1300F hold 10 min. Then full to 950f hold 30 min. They came out good but next time I might try 1350f for slightly more roundness. A few of the pointed edges need cold working to soften them and make less sharp.

 

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